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: Building a Chain Link Fence 3 - News|Nanjing Rayee International Co., Ltd.  •  С: 22545

Building a Chain Link Fence 3

Building a Chain Link Fence

5) Transfer Post Locations to the Ground
Use a plumb bob to transfer the marks from the string down to the ground and mark each post location on the ground using a nail stuck through a piece of paper or with a stake. Once all of the marks are in place, remove the string.

6) Dig Holes for Posts
Using a posthole digger or a hand or power auger (can be rented), dig the postholes. Terminal (end, corner and gate) posts typically have a larger diameter than line (intermediate) posts. Postholes for terminal posts are typically 8 inches in diameter, and 18 to 30 inches deep. Holes for line posts are 6 inches in diameter and 18 to 24 inches deep, depending on the fence height and soil conditions.
In colder climates, set the posts below the frost line. Check local codes.

7) Set the Posts
All posts should be set in concrete. Use a fairly stiff mix, and frequently check the posts for plumb with a level. It's necessary to prop the posts with short lengths of lumber until the concrete sets. Set the terminal posts first. Once the terminal posts are in, attach a leveled string between them marking the height of the line posts. (Line posts are usually about four inches lower than terminal posts because the rails cross over them. Check your manufacturer's specifications.) Set the line posts to this height.

8) Add Top Rails
In one or two days, after the concrete has completely set, attach hardware to the terminal posts and to the top of the line posts. Slide onto each terminal post the tension bands (three or four, depending on fence height); a brace band to anchor the top rail; and a terminal post cap. If a corner post, it will need two brace bands.
Then gently tap the eye tops onto the line posts using a hammer and a block of wood.

Bolt the rail ends onto the brace bands on the terminal posts, and then install the top rails, slipping them through the eye-top connectors on the line posts and into the rail ends. Often, one end of each rail is reduced in diameter so that it can be connected snugly (nested) into the rail preceding it. In other cases, a top-rail sleeve may be required to connect rail ends. Rail-to-rail connections do not have to occur exactly above a post, although the installation will be stronger if they do.